Banana's Foster Tart

Table-side presentations are a lost art. There was a brief moment of virality harkening to a period of time in dining where theater was considered. You’ve seen it, the cart with a giant bowl on ice, romaine, anchovies and parmesan in tow. The waiter puts on a little show using height, wrist flair and bold movements. Undoubtedly you’ve seen the gold handle antique sheers dividing mozzarella for bread service at Carbone. Perhaps you’ve had the rare opportunity to behold the “Hindenburg of Beef” at either The Grill or House of Prime Rib in San Francisco. My first encounter with table-side service was in culinary school making Bananas Foster at the Escoffier restaurant (RIP.)

Bananas Foster originated in New Orleans in 1951. The table-side dessert starts with building a caramel sure to never crystalize. Whilst the caramel slowly changes color the pressure builds as you peel the banana using a dinner knife and fork. Incisions are made preparing the banana for it’s transformation. As the caramel bubbles the bananas are added.

Using a spoon to coat and toss the bananas one must use discretion at this stage. Too much fussing and the bananas will turn to mush and not enough coaxing the bananas won’t take to the caramel. The pan is focused on a hot spot for 10-15 seconds creating a zone of interest for spiced rum to add the drama. As the rum violently reacts to the hot saccharine froth the main attraction is imminent. In order to flambé correctly, the alcohol must catch the flame quickly before too much has vaporized from the searing pan. As the blue and reddish hues illuminate the room an audible gasp is guaranteed.

Acting swiftly while the flame is in full force a shaker of ground cinnamon turns the dessert from just a show to a pyrotechnic feat. The cinnamon snaps, crackles and pops as if summoning ancestors during an indigenous bonfire. The heat is no longer important to the story. In the wings a fellow waiter patiently awaits with icy orbs of vanilla ice cream for the final touch. The softened bananas are carefully placed on the dish concluding with the ice cream. A small applause ensues, the presentation and the waiter (now performer) disappear behind the swiveled doors of the kitchen.