Little Fashion Boi
Stepping off the Venetian water taxi at sixteen years old I noticed how Europeans dressed. The refinement in the materials was like nothing I could ever get at Aeropostale. Tucked away down the narrow passages in Venice are micro versions of famous luxury Italian brands. For a year I had only seen the designs on style.com and now the designs are bejeweled behind polished glass. Dolce and Gabbana was quite popular during that time. D&G’s essence was nouveau disco with an injection of electronic music. Goldfrapp’s, “Strict Machine,” was one of my most listened to songs and I imagined what an alternate version of my life would look like if fashion was it.
Before flying to Italy, my father gave me a refillable card with $450 on it. Day two in Venice and I’ve already spent $190 on a wallet at Dolce and Gabbana. I honored the purchase by caring for it so tenderly and making sure everyone knew it was real. That little wallet would get me through a lot of high school and college. Turns out it was a card holder, but I treated the D&G card holder like it was a full blown wallet. The experience of caretaking for a piece of luxury was just the beginning for my love of fashion. I would empty out my cache frequently for how many style.com fashion show recaps I was watching. The energy of the productions, the models walking, the controversy, the styling, the photography was the most exciting form of expression I desperately wanted to be a part of.
I would cosplay as a fashion person for years until I received an $8,000 check for tips owed during my time working at a three star Michelin restaurant in Manhattan. Alessandro Michele recently launched his first campaign with Gucci. Hedi Slimane was shaking things up at the newly named Saint Laurent (previously Yves Saint Laurent). Fashion was exciting because the product actually focused on wearability vs. avant garde. The Princetown mules were just starting to gain traction over at Gucci. I turned 26 and said, “fuck it, I’m getting these shoes.” The savvy shopper I am came prepared with my European foot size. The mules would slide off my feet occasionally but I absolutely loved them. The quality of the leather, the softness of the sole, the shoes almost invited you in with warm hospitality. Sadly I would have to wait a full year to experience the divine joy of purchasing luxury goods again.
Barneys New York was a fashion paradise for me. Fashion became a touch more intellectual when I was at Barney’s. Demna was at Balenciaga, Clare Wright Keller was at Givenchy and Raf Simons was at Calvin Klein after his triumph at Dior. Raf Simons is a sort of hero of mine. Raf infuses youth and vitality into his designs. The cuts and pattern feel modern and imbued with confidence. When I watched the “Dior and I” documentary about Raf Simons it opened my eyes to the understanding that contemporary fashion was shaped a lot by Belgian designers. Seeing Raf Simons new Calvin Klein collection represented at Barney’s felt like a huge win. I purchased a heavy denim jacket with a black and white leather embossed tag on the back with an 80's Brooke Shields image. The way the jacket sits on the shoulders and the slight curve structure in sleeves elevated the way a denim jacket converses with your body. Unlocked inside of me was a confidence I had never experienced before. Armoring myself in fashion was an opportunity to observe the life of a character just under the surface.
I arrived in Paris in January of 2018 and many boutiques were having sales. I tried on a lot of clothes, I mean a lot. I capitalized on the experience to understand my size and what looks good on my body. Post an afternoon pick-me-up of tarte au citron and chocolat Viennoise at Café de Flore, I head down the streets of Saint-Germain-des-Prés. I exit AMI by Alexandre Mattiusi and behold the holy grail of fashion. Maison Martin Margiela. The staff wear lab coats like the “petite mains” (the design staff) do in the atelier. I skim the collections and see a buttonless suit jacket in a neutral gray lightweight wool. The cut reminded me of Japanese kimonos. In the mirror I see just how marvelous this work of art is. On the back of the jacket is the signature of the house, four white stitches. Martin Margiela understood quiet luxury well before it was aspirational. The price was steep for me, but it’s Paris and it’s Margiela. The invoice was handed to me in a raised envelope. The jacket was wrapped in a linen garment bag, every detail justifying the purchase. I wore the jacket a night later at a gay Sunday gathering at Rosa Bonheur. The DJ was blasting Hercules and the Love Affair, “Blind” and I was jubilant.
Prada, for me, is the epitome of fashion. Ugly-chic defines the codes of Prada. Do I own any Prada? Not yet. I’m eager though as Raf Simons is putting out some remarkable works co-designing with Mrs. Prada. I’ve never really cared about heritage that much until recently. Understanding the voice behind the clothes is as important as the way in which the clothes are made. I love Jil Sander, Loewe and Prada equally for their creative risks and consistently moving fashion forward. They’ve managed to keep a squeaky clean image whilst opening up the conversation on where fashion is headed. One of the most beautiful aspects is creating your own personal archive. When I thumb through my rack and push the more worn items to the side and I see my Raf Simons Calvin Klein denim and I know just how transformative that jacket can be. My most prized possession is the Margiela wool jacket. It still sits in the same garment bag from the Saint-Germain-des-Prés store. It rarely sees any light but when I bring it out, what a special day it is indeed.
Preserved Lemon Whipped Tahini
Deliciously luxe, balanced tart acidity, this preserved lemon whipped tahini promises to lift spirits and put a spotlight on how health never has to compromise on flavor. The secret here is the ice water suspending the tahini trapping air and giving your a lightened creamy spread. I could see this dish in many applications but my preference is to serve it as a dip. The whipped tahini has the cling factor desired in memorable dips. Please note that not all preserved lemons are not created equal. I used a distinctly aged preserved lemon that was not super salty; be cautious, start small and scale up if needed.
Makes 1 quart
Ingredients for whipped tahini:
1 tsp cumin, whole
1 garlic clove, finely grated
1 lemon, juiced
1 preserved lemon, finely chopped
2 tsp kosher salt *depending on how salty the lemons are
450g tahini
aleppo or urfa chili and fresh oregano or parsley to garnish
flakey salt to finish
Ingredients for wild oregano sesame oil:
1 1/2 tbsp sesame seeds
1tsp wild/dried oregano, finely ground
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Whipped tahini method:
Preheat oven to 325ºF.
On a small baking tray add cumin and toast in the oven until fragrant, 3-5 minutes. When cooled, finely grind cumin with mortar and pestle or spice grinder.
In a large bowl combine cumin, garlic, lemon juice, preserved lemon, tahini and kosher salt. Using a whisk, gently stir to combine until the mass seizes and becomes thick and gloopy. Using a liquid measuring cup, add 200ml of cold water with a handful of ice cubes. Stream in ice water in three additions, whisking in between. The tahini will go from clumpy to smooth to creamy. After the last addition of ice water, check the consistency by really trying to whip in air as if it were whipped cream. Using a spoon check the texture of the whipped tahini. It should feel velvety on the palate and have tart salty bites from the preserved lemon. Adjust salt and seasoning as needed, set aside. *If making ahead, stop here and portion into containers until use. If refrigeration is used, please temper and re whip the tahini before serving.
Wild oregano sesame oil:
Preheat oven to 325ºF.
On a small baking tray add sesame seeds and toast in the oven for 5-7 minutes until lightly golden and fragrant. Cool and set aside.
In a small bowl combine sesame and finely ground wild oregano with olive oil. Stir with spoon and set aside.
Serving:
On a plate, spoon some of the whipped tahini building a mound and using the back of the spoon create a divot. Spoon the oil over the whipped tahini and sprinkle it with aleppo pepper, fresh oregano leaves and flakey salt. Have on the side a small plate of garnishes to eat the whipped tahini with.