Dolce Fare Niente

A composed dessert, just because.

Gianduja Budino, 2024.

Skipping dessert is necessary sometimes. The absence of dessert creates a space for yearning to casually seep in when inspiration strikes. When dessert is thoughtfully composed, well meant, hearts become softer and endorphins fire. Principally, if you’re going to “do it up” serve a composed dessert with fanfare.

As a general rule, I believe the components have to be in service to the big picture of the dessert. There are two options, complementing or contrasting. A passion fruit pavlova is a great example of this. The bracing acidity from a passion fruit is contrasted to the fatty richness of cream. At Chez Panisse they would sometimes serve an apricot galette with noyaux ice cream. The glacée was made from apricot kernels giving an almondy extract essence, therefore complementing the complete stone fruit portrait. Every piece of the puzzle matters when conceptualizing a dessert.

Chocolate desserts are the epitome of decadence, an inherent over indulgence. A true pleasure in this lifetime is preparing and serving a chocolate dessert. One of the all-time greats is The River Café’s “Chocolate Nemesis.” The “cake” is made from only four ingredients, wickedly simple, mischievously over the top. It’s essentially a baked chocolate mousse and the only counterpart to its intensity is a dollop of crème fraîche. The natural lactic acidity makes the Chocolate Nemesis feel lighter, borderline chic.

Not only are you telling a story with flavor for a composed dessert but you’re setting and visual impression to be considered. The memory of dessert could be captured purely with taste, but a striking assemblage guarantees a deeply implanted moment, sure to be locked away in the hippocampus. I love the stark effect of whipped cream on midnight hues of chocolate. On social media I’ve witnessed the power of dusting a simple sheet cake with crimson raspberry powder captivating an audience. A bold move is to make an odd choice, almost queer in it’s appearance. The mind does occasionally like to see something completely new.

I urge you all to drop some jaws with a show-stopping dessert. There is a fine line between nailing it and pushing it. My message and motivation has never been to reinvent the wheel. The standard I impose upon myself is one of confidence and assuredness. Gather your wits and make a thoughtful composed dessert. Friends will be tickled, connections will open. Isn’t that what this life is all about?