Okay, so describe what you just ate.
I overheard a guest ask the waiter to describe a dish on the menu once and the waiter replied with, “it’s yummy.” What a missed opportunity to accurately describe a dish and give it some respect. Although, I have a feeling when it comes to describing food, its kind of like that question, “what makes you happy?” Many people would struggle to answer that question with accuracy. So, how do we speak about food? I have been trying to develop that muscle myself so I can write about my experiences in cooking and eating. Heres what I’ve come up with so far.
Think outside the box.
When I did two weeks of work at noma, I worked with a woman named Caroline. She spoke in such poetic ways about cuisine and ingredients that it challenged my own beliefs on how I experience food. Have you ever met someone that turned your own little world upside down? When I was working in SoHo, the chef/owner from the UK described an ingredient listed on the menu as a “curious flavor.” At noma, Caroline would be asked about an ingredient in a dish and she would engage in a way that made the food far more intellectual than I think the chefs imagined. “Here is the Plaice from the Faroe Islands, a fish equally supple and brawny at the same time.”
Slow it down.
Take you time when describing experiences and especially ones with food. Come to your convictions and your notes of love or disgust. Slowing down allows you to develop analytical skills. I sometimes cannot seem to find the words for certain dishes or describing an ingredient and its importance. In that case I am usually tired or thinking too quickly, not allowing myself to arrive at my own thoughts. Moment-to-moment we can all get there, we just need a second to work out what we’re trying to say.
Give food a platform above delicious.
Saying something is delicious is perfectly acceptable and the most accurate way to inform others that you like how something tastes. The challenge is rather to understand why you like it. What memory does it conjure up? Why are you drawn to the dish? All of these questions are far more interesting for having dialogue about food. Emotion is a key factor in relating to others and ultimately creating connection. As an example, here’s how I would describe gelato to someone who has never had it before, “Gelato is a lusciously whipped treat. There are many flavors but what they all have in common is the method in which they are made. Gelato offers a velvety soft texture when you eat it and has a pleasant fresh dairy flavor reminiscent of clover and meadow grasses. There is a refinement to gelato that is apparent in the taste and texture which is signature to the experience.”
If you don’t like something, thats okay too.
Sometimes the jarring nature of the way in which something is prepared can be enough for us to arrive at “no.” If you don’t have the words to describe what you don’t like, thats okay. Occasionally I don’t have the words to describe what I don’t like about something. Think about it this way, it’s all information. Having an opinion can be as simple as like vs. don’t like. Ambivalence is cute for somethings, but when it comes to food and cooking, I have found that it’s not that cute. Taste (literally and figuratively) is a part of the human experience. Feel something about what you eat or cook. I guarantee the world around you will feel cozier, happier and maybe a little more wax poetic.
Smoked Trout Tartine with Mustard Butter
Calm, cool, collected creme fraiche binds the delicately smoked trout fillets together. When eating the tartine you’ll get little pops of brightly pickled shallots, warmth from black pepper and a kettle cooked potato chip vibe (if you’re into sour cream and onion or dill pickle). On a hot piece of bread you’ll glance over and see the tempered mustard butter sliding into the crevices and wafting up a sharp horseradishy nose. The delightful contrast of hot crispy toast and cold smoked trout salad are in my opinion what makes food so damn enjoyable.
Serves 2
Ingredients:
1 medium sized shallot (finely minced)
1 Tbsp red wine vinegar
1 tsp kosher salt (diamond crystal)
5 oz smoked trout fillets
8 oz creme fraiche
2 Tbsp dill (finely chopped, plus more for garnishing)
2 Tbsp chives (sliced thinly, plus more for garnishing)
1 tsp black pepper (freshly ground)
1 Tbsp unsalted butter (softened)
1 Tbsp dijon mustard
2 - 1/2” thick pieces of sourdough batard, pullman, or country bread (sliced crosswise)
Method:
Quick pickle the shallots in a small bowl with red wine vinegar and salt, stir to combine. Set aside for ten minutes. After ten minutes, drain and press out any red wine vinegar from the shallots.
In a large bowl add smoked trout, creme fraiche, dill, chives, black pepper, pickled shallots and a pinch of salt. Using a large spoon or baking spatula break up the trout into small pieces. Once the trout is flaky in appearance, vigorously act like you’re whipping cream allowing the mixture to become homogeneous, set aside.
In a small bowl, stir together butter and mustard until combined. It will look grainy at first, but keep going until it resembles a creamy texture, set aside.
Toast your bread until its slightly past golden brown. Add mustard butter evenly between pieces of toast. Top with trout salad and be generous. However, you may have a small portion of smoked trout left, it keeps up to one week in the refrigerator. Top with remaining dill and chives, crack black pepper over the top and relish in how simple that was.
just went back to read a few of your newsletters and just gotta say you are such a lovable lovely irresistible person. i am no cook or foodie but i feel so lucky to browse thru these! steph aka dill’s gma