Everything, Everywhere, all at Once
I am not as interested in the history of pesto as I am the preservation of it’s purpose. Pesto by nature is a raw sauce. Pesto is one consonant away from the Italian phrase for soon, presto. Above all else, pesto should be served soon. Once the pesto is made the clock begins to tick. Like a sauce you were to make from hours of reducing stock down to a thick and viscous glaze, pesto deserves a tip of the ole hat towards complexity and layers of flavor, but like now.
Garlic often gets abused. Adding more garlic doesn't equate to more flavor. Garlic, how I see it, is an ingredient that provides a savory ripple in small doses. Excessive amounts of garlic complicate your palate and prohibit other ingredients from shining. In pesto, garlic is the least interesting element. One clove, even half can get you to where you want to be, if you believe in achieving balance.
The mythical world of herbs can rapture us all into a state of trance, especially when herbs are abundant. I do not believe pesto should receive the “kitchen sink” treatment. By no means should we be gathering any and all herbs that are the wisps and trimmings left in the fridge to procure proper pesto. An herb, thoughtfully selected and used with intention is like the spritz of a seductive perfume. Basil, in many accounts is the quintessential herb for any pesto due to its anise notes and capability of blooming with heat whilst maintaining its footing in the company of companions like nuts, cheese and olive oil.
The importance of the fatty bits of pesto provide a solid foundation for the sauce. The backbone of pesto is nuts, cheese and high quality extra virgin olive oil. In an effort to be of service to pesto’s raw state, perhaps do not toast the nuts. Oh my God, what did he say? Believe me, I’ll toast a nut until the Armageddon asteroid hits the Earth. I love toasting nuts, but for pesto it’s not necessary. A toasted nut goes from 2D to 3D. Pesto, as a complete sauce is 3D because everything is playing in a 2D world. Good pesto does not need to be salted because the cheese completes the circle in providing the role of salt. Pecorino, saltier than aged Parmesan, is a good beginning zone. Use a mix if you have disposable income. I find that if I can withstand the salty nature of Pecorino coupled with it’s sharp flavor, I’ll choose it every time. If my palate is sensitive, Parmesan all the way.
Single estate, vintage, cold pressed, extra virgin olive oil is it! In honor of Sinead O’Connor’s hit single, “Nothing Compares to You,” for rare olive oil, nothing does compare. I would argue that if you do not take your pursuit of extra virgin olive oil seriously, than I don’t want to hear your opinion on pesto at all. Well, I suppose I’ll hear you out, but listen to my monologue on olive oil. You cannot compete with the diligence and tradition of the freshest harvest of olive oil. Tuscan, Umbrian and some coastal Italian olive oils are my personal joy. Pepper isn’t really needed when the oil is that close to being cultivated from the branch. There’s an electric vitality in the highest quality extra virgin olive oil that can make pesto stand up, clap and demand an encore.
Busiate with Pesto Trapanese
Once you start boiling your water for the pasta, the pesto is finished before the water can come to temp, even if you use a mortar and pestle. I promise! The kiss of heat when introducing the pasta to the pesto is what seals the deal. Any great matchmaker show on television would actually be jealous of this pairing because it’s destiny.
Serves 2
Ingredients:
70g blanched almonds, untoasted
1 clove garlic, core removed
25g basil
300g heirloom tomatoes, deseeded and roughly chopped
50g pecorino, grated, plus more for finishing
75g extra virgin olive oil, the highest quality you’re willing to spend money on, plus more for finishing
200g busiate or other semolina based pasta shapes
Method:
Boil your pasta water and salt it generously. Bring a large pot to a boil and season with kosher salt until it tastes like the ocean. When at a boil, add your pasta and cook until al dente, typically 2-3 minutes less than packaged instructions.
Make the pesto. In the base of a food processor, or mortar and pestle, if your ambitious like me, add almonds and garlic. Begin to pulse or pound until the texture is similar to sand, add to a medium sized bowl. Pulse half of the tomatoes and basil together in the food processor until even dispersed and pureed. If using a mortar, grind basil and add to bowl, then add half of the tomatoes and grind until it resembles tomato sauce. Lastly, add grated pecorino and stir in olive oil until mostly homogeneous.
Cook pasta with the pesto. In a skillet or large pan, add all your pesto and the pasta straight from the boiling water. Add 1/2 cup of pasta water and cook over high heat, stirring occasionally. Once the pan is bubbly and most of the water looks absorbed, cut the heat and keep stirring. This will help the pesto coat all of the pasta evenly and you can plate your pasta once it looks glossy, saucy and luscious. Once plated add a couple of gratings of additional pecorino and a few ribbons of exceptional peppery current vintage olive oil and I’d say that’s dinner.
is there a specific olive oil avail in nyc you love? g reading your europe plans right now! the cod looked amazing. love you! dill’s gma
Love love love this love letter to pesto!! However I’m sorry but almonds in pesto?! Instead of pine nuts??